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Have a great holiday and here’s to an amazing 2012!

Walking around on the Salar de Uyuni felt like another world, and my mind kept telling me it was ice. It was salt of course, but a giant snowfield was my only frame of reference. I even found myself phantom braking our 4×4, my mind fearful that we were about to slide out of control on the slippery surface. The texture was just the opposite, crystalline and coarse. Adding to the surreal experience was the optical illusion of floating islands, a mirage resulting from heat waves playing games with my vision. Despite feeling isolated, we arrived to a full parking lot at Incahuasi. An island within the salt flats, covered with cactus – which happened to be flowering during our visit. It was an experience beyond words for me. The salt is mined and also used for construction. We stayed at Hotel Takya de Sal, and everything from the walls to the chairs were made of salt. It was a bit chilly when I went out to photograph the hotel at night, but I had never seen so many stars. Again I filled my journal with adjectives, but nothing came close. I hope to make it back to the salt flats during the wet season, although it is hard to imagine making this landscape any more dramatic.

It was a short flight over the Andes in an old airplane. I tried not to dwell on it, but the chipped and scratched prop sat right outside my window. Fortunately the air was very calm and the flight was smooth. As we dropped through the clouds I caught my first glimpse of the Amazon. The rivers were muddy brown and the vegetation was lush. After bouncing across the grass the plane pulled up next to the main terminal at the Rurrenabaque airport. As soon as the door opened I could feel the thick jungle air; it was early in the day but already hot. Downtown was a short bus ride away on the cobblestone main road. Tourism has taken over Rurrenabaque, and it seemed that every corner had an office advertising different jungle adventures. I made a quick errand at the nearby market, picked up some sunscreen and then we were off to the river. The ride up the Beni and Tuichi Rivers was slow against the current, further compounded by frequent gravel bars. Eventually (6 hours) we pulled up next to the bank and were greeted by a few of the folks from the lodge. It felt great to stretch my legs and the hike into the lodge was exciting. My senses were overwhelmed with birdcalls and smells (wild pigs abound here and have a powerful scent gland). The next few days were the perfect mix of hiking, reading, napping and swimming in the lagoon. The food was also excellent, and the wood fired oven reminded me a bit of home. Prior to arriving I had been informed that the lagoon housed Cayman as well as Piranhas’…I felt sure I would not be swimming. However, the heat won and it felt amazing to dive in and reach the cool water below the surface. It was my first time in the jungle and waking up to howler monkeys is something I will not forget, a sound both eerie and humbling. I could write much more about the Chalalan Ecolodge, but I am eager to share the photos! I hope you enjoy them.

After downloading and archiving nearly 5,000 images, I thought it would have been difficult to pick a starting point for sharing my travel experience in Bolivia. I decided to begin with the end. Hotel Museo Cayara was the last place that I stayed outside of La Paz. It is situated about 30 minutes Northwest of Potosi, however upon arriving I felt transported to a different century. It dates back to 1557. Hotel Museo Cayara is a Spanish hacienda, with beautiful courtyards, dining halls, libraries and a chapel. The property sits at the head of a well irrigated agricultural valley; picture Oxen instead of John Deere. I showed up road weary, but felt compelled to wander the grounds and village. The area is criss-crossed with stonewalls and cobblestone roads. My limited Spanish did not get me very far with Quechua speaking locals, however I managed to converse with local kids through football. The altitude was lower than neighboring Potosi, but still high enough to be noticed with any moderate exertion. It was springtime and as I walked home the light hitting new growth (fava beans) in the fields was spectacular. Later that evening the owner gave a very interesting tour of the Museo, which included too many beautiful artefacts to recount. It truly felt like stepping back in time. One of my favorite things was the fountain in the back courtyard, it has been flowing for hundreds of years. My only advice is to give yourself at least three or four days here, you will want time to sit and watch the light moving across the walls. The last photo here is different, an accident taken while leaving the valley… but I included it because for me it represents the dream like sensation of moving through time.

Traveling in Bolivia was amazing; an incredible country with interesting people and stunning geography. I have many photos to edit, but this image from the last day of my trip is one of my favorites. For me it symbolizes the beauty, contradiction, and mystery. I look forward to sharing more photographs soon, but first I need to deal with my inbox, finish a wedding and plan for this week’s Food + Wine assignment!